Page 5
A bit more work.
A preview of the end result, i liked the the Yamaha Pacifica 611 so the wood and pickups are close matched to it, just the neck pickup is not the P90 its the SHPR-1 P-Rails witch is a P90 and rail the bridge is the Costum 5 Trembucker TB-14, will need to get an other pickup ring since the gold one is to tall i think for a Strat layout and the included black pickup ring with the pickup it self does not look god in there.
The back plate for the control cavity was fine sanded on the edges. The back was also sanded to take it to the final needed height so that it does not protrude out off its cavity. Holes for screws where drilled and countersunk.
Added cope tape for isolation to the back off the plate.
Drilled holes in MDF board to closely match the drilling on the body, will do some off the soldering out off the cavity, soldering on small places is a challenge.
I ordered push pull for all controls (half are push push) since the P-Rail alone sports lots of features, and i will probably try to include those features in the wiring. I still have to check the wiring diagrams and videos on the wiring on the P-Rails since its the most complex one i think.
My DT-25 Valves are dying out i think so till now i considered the my 1st big solder job on my 1st guitar had lots off problems, witch apparently is not the case, Ml-2 was also trowing up up problems using the amp.... So in the near feature lots needed to be done and changing and re biasing the valves off the amp is not something i am excited to do... lethal voltages fuu... from one off the videos i watch i will stick to having one hand in pocket to not complete the circuit, i read on this forum about some that did change the valves on the DT-25 but i can't find any online reference on how to take the amp apart to access the interior, i don't know if need to take the head off the cab or part off the metal can be removed to access the inside.
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My DT-25 Valves are dying out i think so till now i considered the my 1st big solder job on my 1st guitar had lots off problems, witch apparently is not the case, Ml-2 was also trowing up up problems using the amp.... So in the near feature lots needed to be done and changing and re biasing the valves off the amp is not something i am excited to do... lethal voltages fuu... from one off the videos i watch i will stick to having one hand in pocket to not complete the circuit, i read on this forum about some that did change the valves on the DT-25 but i can't find any online reference on how to take the amp apart to access the interior, i don't know if need to take the head off the cab or part off the metal can be removed to access the inside.
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